An afterthought on the map of Greece, the far-flung island of Kastellorizo has carved out its own identity. Timothy O’Grady fulfils a 20-year ambition to go there and discovers a wild and sophisticated spot that has inspired Pink Floyd and become an escape for an arty crew. Greek islands, in spite of a continuity of sea and landscape, language and culture, can be surprisingly distinct in character. This land is unusually barren, even for Greece, and life is concentrated in the village, so that even now, with its miniscule population, it feels oddly urban. There is an instantly captivating drama that comes from sailing into the harbour, but one that produces more a sense of endearment than the awe you feel going through the caldera of Santorini. Everything is right there in front of you: churches, tavernas and houses, dignified, inviting and so far from everything else, with nothing garish or defensive in sight. It is pretty and private and so small that from a distance you feel you could hold it in your hands.