A new generation of master chefs are turning up the heat in Michelin-star-spangled San Sebastián in northern Spain.
San Sebastián is a beachside city with a global reputation as a foodie capital, Michelin stars in glittering abundance, and restaurants that routinely cram the upper echelons of any given shortlist, top 100, or blogger’s ranking.
But beyond the gastro-temples, something is simmering. A new generation of chefs is coming to prominence, having been unjustly eclipsed by the fame (and the media firepower) of the old guard.
They are all born-and-bred Basques in their 30s with CVs that read like catalogues of the best kitchens in Spain and France. Their restaurants combine passionate cooking with an informal vibe. With the exception of one or two chicas, they are almost all young males. (Why this should be, in the city of world-class chef Elena Arzak, is a mystery.)
Here, we’re talking ‘triumph of the ingredient’.